I love fennel: fat, white bulbs with their bright-green wispy fronds, the stringy crunch and tart aniseedy taste. I like it raw as a salads with olive oil and seasalt (with slices of Wiltshire ham); roasted slowly with garlic; baked in a softly unctuous gratin... but it won't be in season for months - not until June - so I will have to make do with other fennely treats until then: Wild Fennel tea by Dr Stuart's, and Kingfisher Fennel toothpaste.